Echoes of Greece's Jewish Metropolis
- Janis Raisen
- Sep 21
- 7 min read
Updated: 3 hours ago
Imagine a city in Europe with a Jewish majority. That was the reality in Thessaloniki (Salonika), Greece over a century ago. Once called the "Mother of Israel" and the "Jerusalem of the Balkans," Thessaloniki plays a pivotal role in the history of the Jewish people. The history of the Jews from Thessaloniki is one of joy and sorrow, and one that should never be forgotten.
There was Jewish presence in Thessaloniki when the city was founded in the year 315 B.C.E.,under King Cassander of Macedonia. The king named the city after his wife, Thessalonike, Alexander the Great's sister.
Statue of Alexander the Great on the boardwalk along the Aegean Sea. The city was named after Thessalonike, Alexander the Great's sister (Photo: © Israel Sites and Sights / © Janis Raisen)
The Jewish population in Thessaloniki grew in 1492 during the expulsion from Spain when thousands settled in the city. It was a tight-knit community of Greek-born Jews, and thousands of Jewish immigrants, mainly from Spain, but many others arrived from other countries where they were persecuted. They thrived and grew to become the majority of the population.
Over time, between the 1500s and early 1900s, the Jews became the majority and set the tone for the city religiously, spiritually and economically, which is why the city was once referred to as the "Mother of Israel" and the "Jerusalem of the Balkans,"
Renowned rabbis, and prominent community leaders from the Jewish community of Thessaloniki made their marks in history. The Jewish community, largely Sephardic, was the only Jewish majority city outside the Land of Israel (biblical reference prior to the re-establishment of Israel in 1948).
The first hurdle the Jews faced was the Great Fire of 1917, which burnt down most of the center and the Jewish area. The majority were temporarily displaced, but they rebuilt the community, and once again thrived. They continued to grow under Ottoman rule.
The Nazis invaded Thessaloniki in 1941, and transported the entire Jewish community of about 50,000 to Auschwitz in 1943. Only 1,950 Jews survived, according to the exhibit at the Monasteriotes Synagogue.
Today, the quaint, and beautiful city of Thessaloniki, where history and modern times meet, is a bustling city with tavernas, high-end shopping, coffee shops, restaurants, archaeology and a stunning view of the Aegean Sea. Amidst the buzzing city center, scattered throughout the city, are signs and symbols of the once Jewish-majority city.
Guided Tour
Israel Sites and Sights arranged a specialized Jewish history tour of Thessaloniki. Alana Ditsolas (also known as Elena), is a former Israeli resident who lives in Thessaloniki. She is a popular Hebrew-speaking tour guide in the city. She works with Saloniki I.L, a company founded by the iconic Avi Azoulai (Azulay), former spokesperson for many government organizations in Israel, including for the Municipality of Beit She'an.
Powerful Signs and Symbols
The story unfolds as you walk through the city center. Milestones, and Jewish presence can be seen and felt.
Aristotelous Square
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Aristotelous Square is a popular gathering spot in the city center. It's filled with restaurants, coffee shops, and souvenir stores. It's also steps away from the restaurant strip along the sea, and near tavernas, high-end shopping and many other attractions.
As the name suggests, the square is named after the ancient and influential Greek philosopher, Aristotle, who was born in close proximity to Thessaloniki in a town called Stagira, in the Halkidiki region.
Statue of Aristotle, Aristotelous Square, Thessaloniki, Greece.(Photo: © Israel Sites and Sights / © Janis Raisen)
The statue stands front and center in the square. Legend has it that if you touch Aristotle's big left toe you will gain wisdom, Ditsolas explained.
Electra Palace Hotel, where the Alliance Jewish School was once located. (Photo: © Israel Sites and Sights / © Janis Raisen)
To the left of the statue is the Electra Palace Hotel, the former site of the Alliance Jewish School, Ditsolas explained. It was built in 1873, and was part of the Alliance Israélite Universelle (AIU), founded in Paris in 1860.
The Old Port of Thessaloniki
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Once run by Jews, the Old Commercial Port was known for exporting goods, including olive oil, which was stocked in the nearby warehouses. The port was closed on Shabbat when the Jews became the majority and set the tone of the city religiously, spiritually and economically, according to Ditsolas. She also added that rabbis brought Kabbalah studies to the city, making it the top place for learning Kabbalah in Europe.
Ladadika
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Across the street from the Old Commercial Port is Ladadika, a quaint area with cobblestone streets. Known for its nightlife full of Greek tavernas, restaurants, bars and beautiful patios.
The warehouses for the Old Commercial Port, filled with olive oil, were located in Ladadika, along with shops, many owned by Jews. "Ladadika" means "oil market" in Greek. Ditsolas explained that "Ladi" in Greek, means "oil."
An historic district that retains much of its character, since it was spared from the Great Fire of 1917 that destroyed most of the city center.
Louloudadika
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Yahudi Hamam, an Ottoman-Era Jewish bathhouse, located in the old Jewish district, was operational until the early 20th century. "Yahudi" means Jewish in Arabic, which reflects the strong Jewish presence in the area during that period. When the bathhouse closed, the building housed taverns, and later a flower market, which the area is still called today. Louloudadika means "Flower Market" in Greek.
Agora Modiano (Modiano Market)
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The Modiano Market (Agora Modiano) is located in the old commercial Jewish district, around the corner from the Flower Market. The Talmud Torah HaGadol Synagogue, founded in 1520, once stood on this site. The synagogue was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1917 that damaged most of the city center.
The Modiano Market was built between 1922 and 1925. It became the central market, and one of the largest indoor markets in Thessaloniki. Eli Modiano, a Jewish engineer and architect, played a major role in its design and construction.
The market was rebranded and modernized in 2022. Today, it is a popular market that sells a variety of local and international food.
Monasteriotes Synagogue
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The Monasteriotes Synagogue is the only synagogue in Thessaloniki that survived the Holocaust — the only one out of the estimated 59 that were destroyed by the Nazis. The Red Cross used the synagogue as a warehouse during the war, which spared the synagogue from destruction.
Also known as the Monastiriotes Synagogue, since it was founded for the Sephardic Jewish refugees of Monastir (Bitola), part of the former Yugoslavia. It was built between 1925 and 1927, with a donation from Ida Aroesti from Monastir (Bitola) in memory of her husband, Isaac, according to the exhibit at the Monasteriotes Synagogue.
The synagogue underwent some renovations in 2016, and is active today for the High Holidays and special occasions only.
An exhibit on the history of the synagogue, and on the Jews of Thessaloniki fills the synagogue foyer.
Bank of Thessaloniki
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This iconic building, famously known as the building with the Broken Clock, was the former headquarters of the Banque de Salonique that provided credit for Jewish businesses.
Founded in 1888 by one of the Jewish firms belonging to the Allatini family, along with help of two European banks. The bank was located around the corner from the Allatini House.
The bank's headquarters remained there till 1909 when the main branch was moved to Istanbul, according to Dr. Xenia Eleftheriou, Scientific Officer of the Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki.
"In 1888 the Jewish firm Allatini Fratelli mobilized the Viennese Länderbank and the Parisian Comptoir d’Escompte; together they founded the Banque de Salonique, which provided credit for the majority of Jewish industrial initiatives. The building with the clock used to be the bank’s headquarters till 1909. In 1909 the headquarters were relocated to Istanbul although it maintained a branch in Thessaloniki until 1940," explained Dr. Eleftheriou.
The clock stopped working during an earthquake in 1978, leaving the clock frozen in time. "It is true that the building’s clock stopped working during the earthquake of 1978," said Dr. Eleftheriou. The clock stopped on the 20th of June, 1978, the exact time of the earthquake. Since then, it has been broken and it was never repaired," said Dr. Eleftheriou.
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